Isabel Marant Revives the jean this coming Spring

The introduction of the jean goes back to XVI Century Europe. It’s amazing that a product developed 500 years ago has evolved to become a true textile and fashion industry phenomenon. The story goes that the “jean” derives from the word Genoa where it was first produced, and refers to the coarse cotton-wool and/or linen blend that sailors from Genoa used in their pants. Around the same time in England, a material was produced for clothes that would later be called "denim". The word most likely came from the name of the French town, Nimes, after a material that was produced there called, serge de Nimes (material from Nimes).

In 1853, Leob Strauss, who later changed his name to Levi, moved to San Francisco and opened a small wholesale business that supplied miners and workers with work clothes that were strong and did not tear easily. Later in 1872, as the garment became popular, Strauss partnered with inventor Jacob Davis, who introduced the idea of adding copper rivets to the corners of the pockets to the waist overalls Strauss had produced. By the 1920’s waist overalls were the most widely used worker’s pants in America. The name “jeans”, however, was not officially adopted until the 1960’s, when Levi Strauss and Co. recognized that it had no choice, as this was what the product was being called by the young, leisure loving teenage boys. The history of "waist overalls" continues as the history of blue jeans. "Jeans" is now generally understood to refer to pants made out of a specific type of fabric called "denim".

Reworked every generation, denim is now everywhere in this new millennium. It is back on designer’s catwalks, on accessories, home collections, designer jeans by the hundreds of labels. Washes and finishes, embellishments, destroyed and distressed jeans, ultra low rise jeans, the palette available to designers offers limitless possibilities. And once they start to become trivial again, they undergo a new revival.  

And now...a very artistic revival of the jean...courtesy of Isabel Marant's Spring 2012 Collection...

One of fashion's most authentic voices in casual dressing, Isabel Marant is often labeled as the French equivalent of, Alexander Wang in New York--with a splash of color. The edgy designer however has her own feminine glamour going on. Her clothes, adopting a modern hippie style, suggest sexy at the same time. Her 2012 line beautifully reworks the jean, a staple that had been a little forgotten since the legging craze took the runways by storm. It's a denim festival for those that need make no effort--in tie dye, spray on and patchwork, we can anticipate a colorful summer of international travel and unlimited fun. 


So my dears, are you ready to forget the arrival of Winter for some colorful denim fashion? Seriously, who wouldn't be? 

The Turban and the eternal look of glamour

After a short (Thanksgiving) break, I am back to dissect...the Turban.
Once dismissed as a look for grannies in housecoats, the turban has made a comeback as  the star piece of funky fashion for young women in 2010, and it is still taking all fashionistas by storm...and particularly lately in London. According to fashion historian Caroline Rennolds Milbank, "from way back, turbans signified a woman who was very educated and worldly”. Although popular in Victorian times, the turban first came to prominence in 1920 when fashion designer Paul Poiret created his famous Maharaja Turban, inspired by the Ballet Russe. A completely new style of head wear at the time, the turban was immediately labeled as the must have headpiece for the avant garde lady. The turban remained a popular style of hat through the 1930s as it covered and flattered the new shorter hairstyles of the time.  

Even Anglo-Irish Loulou de la Falaise rocked the turban in the 1970s

Consistently associated with elegance, the turban has cycled its way through our modern era, decorating the figures of daringly fashionable women. Whether it has been embracing the sophistication linked with the Hollywood glamour of the 1920s and ’30s adorning the looks of Greta Garbo, Gloria Swanson and Joan Crawford, appearing in the classic film noirs of the 1940s, beautifying the hippie looks of Loulou de la Falaise in the 1970s or revived by Sarah Jessica in the 21st century, the history of turban fashion is very consistent with glamour.    

Now for those who haven't taken on the challenge yet, let the below pictures tempt you...

London turban style via Streetpeeper

I even caught English mannequins all "turban-ed up", like the red one below...

If you are convinced, why not start with this rad piece from Boticca...also pick of the week...?

Happy shopping, and if you don't succumb, I still love you!

Let a flower lean on your shoulder this Winter

Some days are just meant for lounging, chilling, tea-ing...you get the picture. Literally. Picture yours truly stopping by Mariebelle, a wondrous tea parlor and chocolatier in Soho. While I am not quite adept at teaching you the origins of chocolate, I can certainly dissect what I wore. And one detail of it in particular...how about that?

First, the big picture.Throwing black leather pants into your outfit is a Winter necessity, as it makes the look of every fashionista a little more rocker yet chic. It is a classic piece for the season, for a look that is far from the perception of the bad girl that is too often associated with leather. A slim/skinny cut guarantees a feminine silhouette while staying cool. 

Put on a fitted duffle coat with a touch of fox trim, and you've got yourself a wild (yet elegant) look:

coat: Pinko

And better yet the coat comes off only to reveal more fashion jewels: a draped grey sweater with...now the detail: a decorated shoulder (which reminds us of Chanel's black Camellia), and a strong bib necklace to add a punk effect. Ta daa, see below:

sweater and leather pants: Zara, bib necklace: Jimmy Choo for H&M, ballet flats: Miu Miu

Ah yes--did I dare compare the ornament bejeweling my shoulder to Chanel's Camellia? Let us take a closer look:

Indeed, any fashion lover could easily make the association judging by the above picture. Chanel's original emblem, the Camellia, has influenced all areas in fashion, from the Zaras of today to Miuccia Prada's most ornate garments,  and not to forget Murakami's contribution to Louis Vuitton's past cherry blossom collections. This emblem, thanks to Coco, has morphed to become a necklace, a watch, a hat, a chignon, a detail on a button, or just a silk flower pinned to a dress. There was something radically simple about its shape, what Bott calls 'its perfect, almost geometric roundness'. 

Chanel's black Camellia

And with those leather pants, who said borrowing this iconic fashion accessory would be dainty? Try chic and funky instead, and let a flower lean on your shoulder this Winter.

Boho never goes out of Chic

After a short break, I'm ready to dissect some style.


Here's the deal: picture Jehdy. Remember Jehdy flaunting her animal prints? Little did you know she could sport different styles, including Boho Chic. 


Boho Chic borrows its name from bohemians, the free spirited vagabonds, wanderers, gypsies, hippies, artists, children of the revolution, and members of other open minded counter cultures. The term “bohemian” has been used in since the 19th century to describe those associated with unorthodox social and political views. Bohemians recognize and respect the vast beauty that this planet  as well as its people contain. These views were often expressed through free love, free spirited nature, nomadic lifestyle, strong artistic influence, and presenting oneself in free flowing, easy to wear clothing and uninhibited accoutrements. 


Boho Chic is hence associated with the laid back style of 1960′s and 70′s hippie fashion, and was revived in 2008 by gypsy style icon Sienna Miller. Features of the Boho Chic look include floaty skirts (especially long white ones), furry gilets, embroidered tunics, cropped jackets, large faux-coin belts, sheepskin and cowboy boots, baggy cardigans and hobo bags.

Boho Chic fashion

You can see Jehdy has further "hippied" up her look with some bold burgundy red bell bottoms, borrowing from the 1970's code of fashion. Ready to find out about the details of her outfit? Read below.

bell bottoms: Urban Outfitters, shirt: Zara, sweater: Rag & Bone, vest: Mango, beanie: Teddy Boy, bag: TopShop

Ready to face Winter in style? Now you know: Boho never goes out of Chic--no matter the season!

The gem that are the Loubies

Today's post is dedicated to Christian Louboutin.

Christian Louboutin's trademark glossy red soles are an undisputed stamp of fashion excellence. Since the launch of his label in 1991, Christian Louboutin helped bring stilletos back into fashion, seeking to “make a woman look sexy, beautiful, to make her legs look as long as [he] can". From razor-sharp stilettos to lace-up boots and studded sneakers, the French designer has stayed true to his goal - to 'make shoes that are like jewels'.

Louboutin street wear. Images via Streetpeeper

Louboutin claims his fascination with shoes began in 1976 when he visited the Musée national des Arts d'Afrique et d'Océanie in Paris. It was there that he saw an African sign forbidding women wearing stilettos from entering a building for fear of damaging the wooden floor. Holding on to this memory, he later used it as inspiration in his designs. "I wanted to defy that," Louboutin said. "I wanted to create something that broke rules and made women feel confident and empowered."

Are you convinced yet? Give your feet a treat!

What I wore: Edgy minimalism inspired by French tailoring and Asian designer duds

A nice fall day inspired me to show off my taste for French tailoring and Asian designer duds. It also seems like I can't get over my black and blue craze these days. What can I say, edgy minimalism never goes out of style. Add a leopard fur trim to the story (and a bow where you'd least expect it) and you're golden. 

coat: Sandro, leggings: Express, booties: Alexander Wang

Let's start with my new pea coat and how it became such an iconic piece. 

The Pea Coat, Yves Saint Laurent, 1962

Long seen as a staple of working class sailors, the double breasted pea coat jacket was introduced by Yves Saint Laurent in 1962 as an outerwear icon during the launch of his own couture house. The repurposing of functional wear such as pea coats into haute couture undoubtedly became one of YSL's signatures, and a part of his foundation of contemporary fashion design from which many of today's designers (such as those at Sandro) take their cues.
   

Oftentimes today's designers will add a controversial touch to a garment, as a means to make it truly stand out. It is precisely the play on contrasts, and the extra daring detail that will convert a classic piece into something edgy and modern. The bow at the back of my Sandro pea coat precisely shows how a single little detail can bring youth and modernity to a classic. 

sweater: SZEKI

Last but not least is my love for Asian designer clothing and the chic minimalism they suggest through their designs. The denim trim on my black sweater could suggest that I paired this knit with a basic denim shirt. Look closer--there, you found it--the button at the collar proves that the denim part was sewn to the sweater. And this is how basics are turned edgy, thanks to SZEKI. Oh and although my last post was dedicated to them, I must say that my Wang-a-tangs surely complete the outfit well, adding a much needed twist of French chic and downtown cool to balance it all off! 

Falling for Fall yet? 'Tis the best season to show those little details off!

Falling for my Wang-a-tangs

Lately, my love for Asian-American fashion designers has highly manifested itself. Unlike the avant-garde work of Yohji Yamamoto, Rei Kawakubo and Issey Miyake — Japanese designers who took Paris by storm in the 1980s — no common theme resides among the designs of Asian-Americans. Alexander Wang’s street style looks nothing like Derek Lam’s polished dresses, nor the colorful mash-up prints of Peter Som, who also consults on sportswear for Tommy Hilfiger. A fresh new wave of edginess however unites these young designers, as their pieces all stand out in their youthfulness.

My personal favorite is Alexander Wang. After dropping out in his sophomore year at Parsons The New School for Design, he launched his first women's ready-to-wear collection in 2007, and the rest is history--and my booties. 

Known for his edgy, somewhat masculine womenswear designs, Alexander Wang embodies casually cool downtown style, drawing inspiration from the 1990s, French chic, and rock grunge—always finished off with a slouchy, rolled-out-of-bed edge. With a pointed toe and whipstitch trim, these black leather lace-up ankle boots epitomize the label's edgy urban style. Thanks to The Outnet, I snatched a great bargain on my new little Wang-a-tangs! 


Curious to see the rest of my outfit? Patience is a virtue--and while your thoughts dwell on this inspiring proverb, hug my feet!

Who put the Rad in Plaid?

Plaid: it’s what unites all true hipsters and fashionistas these days. Oh, and it also includes Scots. So who put the Rad in Plaid? See how it all (rebelliously) began...

Tartan, known as plaid in North America,  is a pattern consisting of criss-crossed horizontal and vertical bands in multiple colors.Tartan was originally a sort of uniform for distinguishing the many clans in the Highlands and islands of Scotland and can be traced as far back as the middle of the 5th Century to Ireland, where the Scots originated. Although it was then introduced in the form of kilts and not trendy button-downs, plaid symbolized the rebellion against the English so much so that authorities banned it after the Scottish rebellion of 1746.

Plaid was further associated with rebellion in the 20th century and particularly around the women's liberation movement, who reclaimed the plaid shirt in the1960's as a statement against its association with men in the physical labor force. It was also embraced in the grunge scene in the 1990s. Just like skinny jeans in 1980s punk culture, grunge produced a style that challenged what was considered uncool and revamped the plaid shirt all over again while rebelling against the establishment, just like their predecessors.

Today the revival of plaid in fashion is particularly owed to the late Alexander McQueen. For McQueen, tartan—the visual signifier of clanship throughout Scottish history—was a reference to his own Scottish heritage as well as to Scotland's turbulent political history.

Alexander McQueen ensemble, Widows of Culloden collection, AW 2006-2007. Dress of wool tartan, top of nude silk net appliquéd with black lace; underskirt of cream silk tulle. Photo courtesy of the Metropolitan Museum of Art.  

New York street style, rocking the plaid. Left: red plaid APC poncho coat. Right: plaid pants. Images via Streetpeeper. 

So, have you rebelled yet? It's okay, you're allowed just this one time...in the name of fashion!

A Versace Moment...An H&M Special

See? I told you yesterday's post had a twist coming up! Today's post honors the launch of the Versace for H&M collection. Attention fashionistas, beware not to choke when you see these new little numbers at very friendly prices!

The brand's legacy in a nutshell:

Versace was already on the path towards a great career at a young age, learning how to cut and make clothes from his mother, as she ran a small tailor-shop to support the family. Gianni loved designing the clothes himself and soon he was selling them out of his mother’s shop. At the age of 26, he moved to Milan to work in fashion design.The first Versace boutique opened in Milan’s Via della Spiga in 1978, and Gianni sold his own designs alongside other labels, though soon he was outselling all the other brands.

Gianni's bold creative genius consistently challenged the boundaries of the fashion industry. His distinctive cuts, vibrant prints and unconventional materials brilliantly blended glamour, rock'n'roll, art, theatre and ballet, and served to introduce folk culture into the high couture world. Gianni was particularly influenced by Andy Warhol, Ancient Roman and Greek art as well as modern abstract art.

Versace today and the H&M collaboration:

Today, the label shines under Donatella Versace, Gianni's sister, who has managed to perpetuate the brand's promise towards a glamorous lifestyle blending sportswear with luxurious elegance. Versace's exclusive collaboration with H&M only shows that the brand is more than ever filled with youth and sexiness, as the collection looks back to its vibrant heritage, focused on leather, prints, color and exuberance.

I am personally loving the parallels between Gianni's creations of the 90s and the new Versace for H&M line. Talk about transplanting the late designer's wisdom and savoir faire into a more youthful and modern line! Patience, my friends, the collection will be available in select stores on November 19th.

A Versace Moment...A Vogue Special

No words to describe Versace's unique take on stylish opulence. You can take a deeper look here. To be continued...

A tribute to one of fashion's greatest muses: Loulou de la Falaise

I woke up this morning to the sad news of Loulou de la Falaise's passing, and could not devote my post to anyone else but to a fashion icon so dear to my heart. Loulou de la Falaise, collaborator and muse to the late Yves Saint Laurent, died on Saturday in her home in Vexin, France. She was 64.

A true influential figure ahead of her time, Loulou de la Falaise affirmed her style by defying gender roles with her slim and often boyish silhouette, adorning herself with less delicate pieces such as chunky-like jewelry and turbans.

Referred to as “the quintessential Rive Gauche haute bohémienne” by the New Yorker, de la Falaise’s style served as the inspiration for YSL’s Le Smoking suit and YSL’s classic sheer blouse, a style de la Falaise often wore herself. In Saint Laurent's own words, "Loulou’s true talent, other than her undeniable professional qualities, is her charm. Unique. Moving ... She has an extraordinary lightness of touch, along with a faultless critical view of fashion. Intuitive, innate, individual. Her presence at my side is a dream". 

For more than three decades, de la Falaise designed jewelry and accessories for Yves Saint Laurent in addition to serving as his muse and constant companion. As Cathy Horyn writes in her On the Runway post, Loulou's “chunky bracelets and necklaces…helped establish the YSL look.” When Saint Laurent retired in 2002, she left as well, later launching her own label designing ready-to-wear, costume jewelry, and accessories, sold in a namesake boutique she opened on Rue Cambon. Loulou is survived by her daughter and husband.

A 1970s picture of Loulou wearing a style that served as inspiration of Marc Jacobs’ Spring 2011 show. Courtesy of Fashionista.com.

The Daphne Guiness Exhibition at the FIT-- A Voyage to the pinnacle of Fashion Artistry

The mystery of yesterday's post is finally unveiled. For those who were burning with curiosity, you are now at peace. The shoes portrayed are no one else's work but that of the late Alexander McQueen, specifically made for Daphne Guiness, one of today’s most original fashion icons. 

Although Alexander McQueen’s Savage Beauty exhibition has ended, fashion lovers can still see the amazing collection of Daphne Guinness, heir to the Guinness family fortune. The exhibit, co-curated by Guinness herself at the FIT museum, features over 100 of her personal designer garments and accessories, which include a few garments that she designed herself, and predominantly the works of Alexander McQueen (dating as far back as his work with Givenchy), Christian Dior, Christian Lacroix and Karl Lagerfeld. Other designers include Balmain, Azzedine Alaia, Valentino and Gareth Pugh.  

Carefully grouped into six sections, Daphne's looks brushed over the themes of Dandyism (menswear inspired), Armor (metallic, spikes and leather), Chic (dresses and suits), Evening Chic (classical looks), Exoticism (more dramatically tailored clothing) and Sparkle (sequins, feathers and beading). The thought that I was standing before mere pieces of clothing did not even cross my mind. The phenomenal finishing and detailing that was devoted to the making of these pieces made each collection more sumptuous than the previous. I was in the presence of true works of art, fashioned by some of the Grands Createurs I aspire to. I felt Daphne's presence was all around the space: flatscreen TVs displayed editorial images and commentaries of the fashion icon, and an audio headset provided a behind-the-scenes look at her fragrance commercial. Mannequins even sported her signature two-toned up-do hairstyle, while some were adorned with White Royal Imperial wigs.  

The exhibition moreover featured the work of Aero director Indrani including previews of her new film starring Daphne, titled, The Legend of Lady White Snake: A Tribute to the Spirit of Alexander McQueen, written and directed by Indrani. Photographs by Markus Klinko and Indrani, shot on the set of the film, were also on display. 

In short, you fashion lovers should make time to go see this exhibition, which runs through January 7th, 2012. It will transport your imagination to a fabulous fantasy place, somewhere in between McQueen's dark universe, Lagerfeld's flawless finishing and Givenchy's kaleidoscopic palette. Oh yes--I'm still dreamy about it!

They say you can discern one's personality by the look of their shoes...

What can you infer from these and their owner? To be continued...

Dissecting the return (and reinterpretation) of the Glam Punk era

It seems like we’re still trending on the 80’s vibe—more specifically the glam punk of the earlier part of the decade. The Glam punk of the 80s, the oldest punk style, is associated with glitter, androgynous make-up, brightly-dyed hair, combat boots, and cigarette jeans. Emerging as a reaction to the flared trouser hippies, Glam punk fashion mixed basics with powerful pieces to add a rebellious touch to the woman’s outfit. This style has been extremely commercialized at various times, and many well-established fashion designers — such as Vivienne Westwood and Jean Paul Gaultier— have used punk elements in their production.The legging and cigarette jeans craze remains particularly in vogue today, and designers such as Balmain pair these must-have basics with the golds and metals of the 1980's club scene.

Vivienne Westwood

Sadly—or not, I won’t be dying my hair nor busting out a crazy makeup do anytime soon, but I sure do sport the 80’s glam punk style in my own way!

Here's a tamed version of the glam punk costume--reinterpreted by yours truly:

Sweater: H&M, Sequined tank: Topshop, Legging pants: Joseph, Boots: Marc Jacobs

Pair that fancy do with Chanel's uber fabulous Peridot nail polish:

Are you ready to dissect that glam punk style already?

You know you want to!


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Have a Starry Night...

Fulfill your dream of becoming a beautified and live canvas adorning the likes of Van Gogh's masterpiece by visiting Moda Operandi's trunkshow. 

Black and blue craze

Have you already turned black and blue in a fabulous way? Here's the guide on how to make that happen--trust me, no one will get hurt.


Let me explain what influenced the dissection I am about to reveal. Since the early eighties, Yohji Yamatoto's work has challenged traditional notions of fashion by designing garments that seem oversized and unfinished.  His skillful use of the color black which he describes as 'modest and arrogant at the same time' will often be 'softened' with the use of primary colors, such as blues, yellows and reds. 


Now you are wondering, why on Earth did I bring up Yamamoto? Well, It is precisely him who made black and blue outfits acceptable. What render his pieces truly unique is his continuous use of naturally oversized silhouettes as the basis for his lines, as well as drapery in varying textures. Usually limiting his pieces to a single shade (which, who is he kidding, is black for the most part) are at times enhanced with a touch of additional color (blues and reds being some of his favorites). 

What inspires my black and blue craze is Yamamoto's outfit below. Both shades complement each other well that one's gaze ends up blending these into one perfect "electric" vision.

 Yohji Yamamoto, AW 2010

And now, my translation (and dissection) of the craze, in images:

Jacket: Sally LaPointe, Jumper: Sally LaPointe, Platform boots: Jeffrey Campbell, Bracelet: LeiVanKash, Bag: Jason Wu, Scarf: Erdem

Yamamoto certainly rubs off Sally LaPointe's draping and shoulder sculpting skills, with her jersey draped jumper and crackled leather cropped jacket. Bolden up and style yourself in this emerging designer's pieces, sport a LeiVanKash feather lapis bracelet, some Jeffrey Campbell electric blue platform boots with a silver heel that screams "ooh la la", a galactic Erdem scarf, and not to mention an outrageously gorgeous Miss Wu electric blue python mini! 

See? Black and blues are totally harmless. You'll only get hurt if you don't give into the craze!